Adorable Two-Color Paws Teddy Bear Pattern: Easy Crochet Amigurumi

This adorable two-color paws teddy bear is the perfect handmade gift for a new baby, a first birthday, or a nursery shelf display. Designed with a charcoal grey body and contrasting white paw pads and muzzle, this amigurumi is easy to stitch and holds up well to being hugged and dragged around. The straight-legged sitting pose and ribbon neck tie give it a classic, timeless look that appeals to both toddlers and adults. Beginners will appreciate the straightforward shaping and the clear color changes on the limbs.

Gift and Use Ideas

This teddy bear is more than just a cute plushie; it is a versatile project that fits into many moments of life. For a new parent, the bear serves as a comforting companion for nap times and a durable toy that can withstand enthusiastic play. For collectors or home decorators, the charcoal grey and white color scheme is neutral enough to blend into any nursery theme, from modern minimalist to rustic woodland. You can easily customize the yarn color to match a baby’s outfit or create a matching pair for twins. The simple construction makes it a quick market-table item for craft fairs, while the sturdy assembly ensures it becomes a cherished keepsake.

Project Overview

This pattern creates a charcoal grey crochet teddy bear roughly 7 to 9 inches tall. The bear features white patches for the muzzle, paw pads, and soles of the feet, with round ears sitting high on the head. The limbs are worked separately with a color change to create the two-tone effect. Assembly involves sewing the pieces together and adding embroidered facial features or safety eyes.

Materials

• Main body yarn in gray or your chosen bear color
• White yarn for the paw bases and muzzle
• Crochet hook suitable for your yarn weight
• Polyester stuffing
• Stitch marker
• Tapestry needle
• Safety eyes or embroidery thread for eyes
• Black or dark yarn for embroidered nose and mouth
• Ribbon for the neck

Note: The pattern does not specify a yarn weight. A DK or light worsted yarn on a 3.5 mm to 4.0 mm hook gives an approximate finished height of 7 to 9 inches, estimated from experience with similar bears. Time is approximately 3 to 4 hours. Both are estimates from experience, not measurements from the pattern.

Gauge and Finished Size

The finished bear is approximately 7 to 9 inches tall. Because amigurumi tension varies by maker, the exact size will depend on your yarn weight and hook size. The body is intentionally narrower than the head, and the legs are designed to sit straight out in front.

Abbreviations

• sc: single crochet
• inc: increase, two sc into one stitch
• dec: decrease, two stitches worked together into one
• BLO: back loop only

Stitch counts in brackets at the end of each round.

Pattern Notes

• All pieces are worked in a continuous spiral unless stated otherwise.
• Do not join at the end of each round.
• Move your stitch marker at the start of every round.
• The pattern does not specify a yarn weight.
• Time is approximately 3 to 4 hours. Both are estimates from experience, not measurements from the pattern.

Pieces List

• Head: 1 piece
• Body: 1 piece
• Arms: 2 pieces, white base with gray color change
• Legs: 2 pieces, white base with gray color change
• Ears: 2 pieces, flattened and seam-closed
• Muzzle: 1 piece in white
• Pom pom tail: 1 piece

Ten pieces total before assembly.

Safety Eye Timing

The assembly section lists safety eyes as a final step after all pieces are sewn together and the muzzle is attached. At that point, the head is stuffed and closed and the washers cannot be pressed on from inside. Insert the safety eyes into the head before working round 10, while the opening is still wide enough to work comfortably from inside. Position them between rounds 6 and 7 approximately 5 stitches apart, check from the front, then press the washers on before continuing. For any bear going to a child under three, use embroidered eyes in black yarn worked after assembly instead. Two small tight satin stitches at the same position, no hardware involved.

The Pattern

All pieces are worked in a continuous spiral unless stated otherwise. Do not join at the end of each round. Move your stitch marker at the start of every round.

Head

Round 1: magic ring with 6 sc [6]
Round 2: increase in each stitch around [12]
Round 3: 1 sc, 1 inc, repeat 6 times [18]
Round 4: 2 sc, 1 inc, repeat 6 times [24]
Round 5: 3 sc, 1 inc, repeat 6 times [30]. Checkpoint: a flat disc still lying level on the table. Insert safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7 after completing round 6, before the head begins closing
Round 6: 30 sc [30]
Round 7: 30 sc [30]
Round 8: 30 sc [30]
Round 9: 30 sc [30]. Checkpoint: a full round head sitting upright with the opening still wide. If you have not placed the safety eyes yet, this is the last practical point to do so before the decreases close the head
Round 10: 3 sc, 1 dec, repeat 6 times [24]
Round 11: 2 sc, 1 dec, repeat 6 times [18]
Round 12: 1 sc, 1 dec, repeat 6 times [12]. Checkpoint: the head has closed to a small opening. Stuff firmly through the remaining gap before the next step Stuff firmly Slip stitch and leave a long tail for sewing

Body

Round 1: magic ring with 6 sc [6]
Round 2: increase in each stitch around [12]
Round 3: 1 sc, 1 inc, repeat around [18]
Round 4: 2 sc, 1 inc, repeat around [24]. Checkpoint: a flat disc the same starting construction as the head, except the body will stay narrower throughout
Round 5: 24 sc [24]
Round 6: 24 sc [24]
Round 7: 24 sc [24]. Checkpoint: a barrel-shaped tube sitting at its widest point. The body is intentionally narrower than the head
Round 8: 2 sc, 1 dec, repeat 6 times [18]
Round 9: 18 sc [18]
Round 10: 1 sc, 1 dec, repeat 6 times [12]. If the opening is still too wide to close neatly after this round, work one additional decrease round before slip stitching
Round 11: 12 sc [12]. Checkpoint: the body is closing toward a narrow top that will accept the head base at assembly Stuff firmly Slip stitch and leave a long tail

Never made an amigurumi before? The video tutorial below is the perfect starting point, and the written pattern is right here whenever you’re ready!

Arms, Make Two

Round 1: using white yarn, magic ring with 6 sc [6]
Round 2: 1 sc, 1 inc, repeat around [9]. Checkpoint: a small flat oval disc in white forming the paw pad
Round 3: change to gray yarn, work 9 sc in back loops only [9]. The front loops left by this round form a visible white-to-gray ridge on the right side. If the ridge is not sitting cleanly on the right side, check that only the back loops were used. Checkpoint: the ridge reads as a clear colour join around the paw
Round 4: 9 sc [9]
Round 5: 1 sc, 1 dec, repeat 3 times [6]
Round 6: 6 sc [6]
Round 7: 6 sc [6]
Round 8: 6 sc [6]
Round 9: 6 sc [6]
Round 10: 6 sc [6]
Round 11: 6 sc [6]. Checkpoint: a long narrow gray tube with a white paw base and a visible ridge at the join Do not stuff Leave a tail for sewing

Legs, Make Two

Round 1: using white yarn, magic ring with 6 sc [6]
Round 2: increase in each stitch around [12]. Checkpoint: a flat white disc forming the foot pad base
Round 3: change to gray yarn, work 12 sc in back loops only [12]. Same ridge construction as the arms. Check from the right side that the white-gray join reads as a clean line. If the ridge is pulling inward, the back loop round was worked too tightly
Round 4: 12 sc [12]
Round 5: 1 sc, 1 dec, repeat 4 times [8]. Checkpoint: the leg narrows above the foot pad into a tube
Round 6: 8 sc [8]
Round 7: 8 sc [8]
Round 8: 8 sc [8]. Checkpoint: a short compact leg tube with a white foot base, firm enough to support the body once stuffed Stuff firmly Leave a tail for sewing

Ears, Make Two

Round 1: magic ring with 6 sc [6]
Round 2: increase in each stitch around [12]. Checkpoint: a flat disc about the size of a large coin
Round 3: 12 sc [12]. Checkpoint: the ear has slight depth now and will flatten into a half-moon shape when pressed. If the ear cups inward before flattening, the tension is tight but the ear will still close correctly Flatten the ear so both layers align Single crochet 6 stitches across both sides to close Leave a tail for sewing

Muzzle

Round 1: using white yarn, magic ring with 6 sc [6]
Round 2: increase in each stitch around [12]. Checkpoint: a small flat white circle
Round 3: 12 sc [12]. Checkpoint: the muzzle has slight cup depth and will sit proud of the face once stuffed and sewn on Leave a tail for sewing. Stuff lightly before closing when sewing onto the head

Assembly

Pin every piece before sewing. The muzzle position controls the whole face and is worth adjusting by one stitch before committing.

1. Insert safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7 of the head if not already placed. See Safety Eye Timing above.
2. Sew the head to the body using the long tail, passing around the full join twice before knotting.
3. Attach both arms at the second round below the neck, one on each side.
4. Attach both legs at the fourth round from the bottom of the body.
5. Attach both ears at the third round from the top of the head, one on each side.
6. Position the muzzle at the seventh round from the top of the head, in the centre of the face. Add a light pinch of stuffing before sewing closed.
7. Embroider the nose and mouth onto the muzzle surface using black or dark yarn.
8. Make a small pom pom in gray yarn and sew it to the centre back of the body.

Tips

• Yarn Weight: The pattern does not specify a yarn weight. A DK or light worsted yarn on a 3.5 mm to 4.0 mm hook gives an approximate finished height of 7 to 9 inches, estimated from experience with similar bears.
• Time Estimate: Time is approximately 3 to 4 hours. Both are estimates from experience, not measurements from the pattern.
• Eye Safety: For any bear going to a child under three, use embroidered eyes in black yarn worked after assembly instead. Two small tight satin stitches at the same position, no hardware involved.
• Fixing the Ridge: The white-to-gray ridge on the arms and legs is visible on the wrong side. You worked round 3 in front loops instead of back loops. The ridge always appears on the opposite side to the loops you worked into. Rip back to round 3 only and redo it in back loops to shift the ridge to the correct side.
• Muzzle Placement: The muzzle is not staying in place while I sew it. Use a pin through both the muzzle centre and the head to hold it flat while you sew. Thread the needle through the muzzle edge and into the head fabric, working around the full perimeter, and add the stuffing through a small gap just before the last few stitches close it.
• Proportions: The arms are too long compared to the body. The arms run eleven rounds at 6 stitches each, which is intentionally longer than the body on a sitting bear. If the proportion still looks off, check that the body increase rounds reached 24 stitches before the plain rounds, since a body that stayed narrow will always make the arms look long by comparison.

FAQs

What yarn weight should I use for this bear?

The pattern does not specify a yarn weight. A DK or light worsted yarn on a 3.5 mm to 4.0 mm hook is recommended to achieve the approximate finished height of 7 to 9 inches.

How do I fix the color ridge on the arms and legs?

If the white-to-gray ridge appears on the wrong side, you likely worked the color change round into the front loops instead of the back loops. Rip back to round 3 and redo it in back loops (BLO) to shift the ridge to the correct side.

Can I use this pattern for a baby under three years old?

Yes, but for safety, it is recommended to embroider the eyes using black yarn instead of using plastic safety eyes. This eliminates small parts that could be a choking hazard.

Why are my arms longer than my body?

The arms are intentionally worked for eleven rounds, which is longer than the body’s main tube. This creates a sitting pose where the arms rest naturally. If the proportions look off, ensure your body reached 24 stitches in the increase rounds before working the plain rounds.

How do I attach the muzzle securely?

Pin the muzzle to the head before sewing to hold it flat. Stuff it lightly before closing it to the head, and work your stitches around the full perimeter to secure it firmly.