Adorable Alien & UFO Amigurumi: 3 Easy Crochet Pattern Ideas

There is a specific kind of magic that happens when you pull the final stitch through a magic ring and the shape suddenly clicks into place. For this project, that moment arrives when the flat saucer begins to curve into a dome, or when the alien head takes its first cylindrical form. With your hook in hand and the yarn ready, you are about to build a palm-sized sci-fi scene that is as much about engineering as it is about cuteness. This pattern guides you through a multi-part amigurumi project that requires patience, precise tension, and a bit of creative problem-solving to get that perfect flat-bottomed UFO profile.

Why This Project Works

What makes the Alien & UFO Amigurumi stand out isn’t just the novelty of the subject; it is the clever construction of the saucer. Unlike many amigurumi that are stuffed into a ball, this design relies on a specific “flat-to-dome” engineering. The bottom section is worked in pure increases to stay perfectly flat, while the top section uses even rounds to build height and curve. This contrast creates a realistic flying saucer silhouette that sits level on a desk or shelf. The addition of the alien pilot adds a narrative touch, turning a simple craft project into a character piece. It is an excellent project for crocheters who want to move beyond basic spirals and learn how to manage tension, color changes, and structural shaping.

Project Overview

This pattern creates a complete scene featuring a green alien pilot and a multi-colored flying saucer. The UFO consists of a domed top section, a flat bottom section, and three small feet. The alien is a separate piece that attaches to the top of the saucer. The project involves working in both joined rounds (for the alien) and continuous spirals (for the UFO), requiring attention to how you join or mark your rounds. The finished piece is small enough to be a keychain or desk toy, but detailed enough to be a collectible display item.

Materials

• Yarn: Approximately 40 to 50 g total. You will need three colors: one for the alien (typically green) and two for the UFO (typically a navy/dark color for the body and a contrasting color like pink for the rim/feet). The source does not specify a yarn weight, but the hook size suggests a standard worsted or DK weight.
• Hook: Size 3 mm or 4 mm (The source notes this ambiguity, so choose the size that gives you tight tension).
• Stuffing: Approximately 20 to 30 g of fiberfill. You will need different amounts for different parts (see Stuffing Guide).
• Eyes: Black felt cut into two tear shapes.
• Tools: Craft glue, yarn needle, small sharp scissors, and stitch markers.

Gauge and Finished Size

Finished Size: The UFO saucer measures approximately 8 to 9 cm across at its widest point when worked with a 3 mm hook. This is an estimate based on the stitch counts provided.

Gauge: No specific gauge swatch is provided in the source. However, maintaining tight tension is critical, especially for the UFO sections, to prevent stuffing from showing through and to ensure the flat sections lie correctly.

Abbreviations

• SC: Single crochet
• Inc: Increase (two single crochet in the same stitch)
• Dec: Decrease
• Magic Ring: Adjustable starting loop for working in the round
• Stitch Counts: Appear in brackets at the end of each round.

Pattern Notes

• Joining vs. Spiraling: The alien is worked in joined rounds, meaning you slip stitch and chain 1 at the end of every round. The UFO sections do not mention joining; these should be worked in a continuous spiral. Joining a 60-stitch disc would create a visible radial seam from the center to the rim, which is undesirable for a saucer.
• Color Changes: Change color on the final yarn over of the last stitch in the previous round. This ensures the transition sits flat.
• Tension: Keep tension tight. Loose tension will cause ruffling in increase rounds and make the UFO ball-shaped instead of flat.
• The “Seven” Ladder: The UFO bottom section starts with 7 stitches in the magic ring, not 6. The increase ladder runs on sevens (14, 21, 28, 35, 42, 49, 56). Round 9 breaks this pattern to jump to 60 stitches to match the top section. This is intentional.

Pattern Instructions

Alien Head

Worked in joined rounds. Slip stitch and chain 1 at the end of each round.

• Round 1: Magic ring, 6 SC, slip stitch and chain 1 [6]
• Round 2: 6 Inc, slip stitch and chain 1 [12]
• Round 3: 1 SC, 1 Inc, repeat around, slip stitch and chain 1 [18]
  • Checkpoint: A small flat disc lying down without cupping. The chain 1 at each round start builds a faint vertical seam; keep this on the back of the head.
• Round 4: SC in each stitch around, slip stitch and chain 1 [18]
• Round 5: SC in each stitch around, slip stitch and chain 1 [18]
• Round 6: SC in each stitch around, slip stitch and chain 1 [18]
• Round 7: SC in each stitch around, slip stitch and chain 1 [18]
  • Checkpoint: Four straight rounds give a short open cylinder with a domed top. If sides are flaring, your tension loosened in rounds 4-7.
• Round 8: 4 SC, 1 Dec, repeat around [15]
• Round 9: 3 SC, 1 Dec, repeat around [12]
  • Checkpoint: The head closes evenly. Every decrease round has exactly 3 repeats.
• Round 10: 2 SC, 1 Dec, repeat around [9]. Fill with fiberfill. Push in with the blunt end of your hook and shape the head round with your fingers.
• Round 11: 1 SC, 1 Dec, repeat around [6]
  • Checkpoint: A small opening is left at the base. Cut the yarn and hide the tail. Note: You must close this hole later (see Assembly).

UFO Top Section

Worked in continuous spiral. Use a stitch marker.

• Round 1: Magic ring, 6 SC [6]
• Round 2: 6 Inc [12]
• Round 3: 1 SC, 1 Inc, repeat [18]
• Round 4: 2 SC, 1 Inc, repeat [24]
  • Checkpoint: A flat disc. Any ruffling means loose increases.
• Round 5: SC around [24]
• Round 6: Switch to color B, working in back loops only, 1 SC, 1 Inc, repeat around [36]
  • Checkpoint: The back loop round leaves a visible ridge. This is the mechanical detail line; ensure it shows.
• Round 7: Switch back to color A, SC around [36]
• Round 8: 2 SC, 1 Inc, repeat around [48]
• Round 9: SC around [48]
  • Checkpoint: Even rounds 5, 7, and 9 create the dome. It should curve downward at the edge.
• Round 10: 3 SC, 1 Inc, repeat around [60]
• Round 11: Switch to color B, SC around [60]
  • Checkpoint: A domed disc finishing at 60 stitches. Measure against the bottom section; both must be 60. Cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

UFO Bottom Section

Worked in continuous spiral. Use a stitch marker.

• Round 1: Magic ring, 7 SC [7]
• Round 2: 7 Inc [14]
• Round 3: 1 SC, 1 Inc, repeat [21]
• Round 4: 2 SC, 1 Inc, repeat [28]
  • Checkpoint: This piece has no even rounds until round 10, so it should lie completely flat.
• Round 5: 3 SC, 1 Inc, repeat [35]
• Round 6: 4 SC, 1 Inc, repeat [42]
• Round 7: 5 SC, 1 Inc, repeat [49]
• Round 8: 6 SC, 1 Inc, repeat [56]
  • Checkpoint: Still flat, and noticeably wider than the top was at the same round number.
• Round 9: 13 SC, 1 Inc, repeat around until the stitch count matches the top piece [60]
  • Checkpoint: This works out to exactly 4 repeats, taking 56 to 60. It is not a guess.
• Round 10: Switch to color B, SC around [60]. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Feet, Make 3

• Round 1: Magic ring, 8 SC [8]
• Round 2: Working in back loops only, SC in each stitch around [8]
  • Checkpoint: A tiny disc with a raised edge. This edge stops the foot from flattening under the saucer’s weight. All three must match. Slip stitch and cut yarn.

Assembly

1. Close the Alien Head: The pattern leaves 6 stitches open in Round 11. Thread the tail on a needle, run it through the front loops of all 6 remaining stitches, and pull tight to close the hole before hiding the tail.
2. Assemble the UFO: Pin the top and bottom sections together with rims aligned. Sew the two halves together using the outer loops. Stop before closing completely, fill with fiberfill (see Stuffing Guide), and finish the seam.
3. Attach Feet: Attach the three feet to the underside in a triangle. Space them evenly and sit the UFO on a flat surface to check it does not rock before securing.
4. Attach Alien: Attach the alien to the top center of the dome. Ensure it sits squarely so it looks like it is piloting the ship.
5. Add Details: Glue the black felt eyes to the alien. Embroider vertical lines and small lights around the UFO rim using color B. Add these last so you can space them evenly around the finished shape.

Stuffing Guide

• Alien Head: Stuff firmly but not stretched. It needs to hold a round shape under the glued eyes. Stuff at Round 10.
• UFO Body: Stuff lightly. This is the most common point of failure. A firmly stuffed saucer turns into a ball. Fill through the gap in the rim seam, working stuffing out toward the edges first rather than piling it in the middle. A center-heavy saucer domes upward.
• Feet: Do not stuff. They are two rounds and meant to sit flat.

Tips

• If the UFO sides flare outward, your tension has loosened. Tighten up.
• If the back loop ridge on the UFO top disappears, you are overstuffing. Remove filling.
• Use a stitch marker for the UFO sections to keep track of rounds since they are spiraled.
• For a smoother finish on the alien head, ensure the vertical seam from the joined rounds is kept on the back.

FAQs

Why does the bottom section start with 7 stitches instead of 6?

It starts with 7 so it can increase on a different ladder (sevens) to grow flat rather than domed. Round 9 breaks this pattern to land on 60 stitches to match the top section.

Should I join the UFO rounds or spiral them?

Spiral them. Joining a 60-stitch disc leaves a chain at every round start that stacks into a visible line running to the rim, which looks like a flaw on a saucer.

My saucer came out ball-shaped. Why?

This is almost certainly due to too much stuffing. Open part of the rim seam, take filling out, and redistribute what is left toward the outer edge rather than the center.

How do I fix the hole in the alien’s head?

The pattern instructions leave 6 stitches open. You must thread the yarn tail through the front loops of these 6 stitches and pull tight to close the hole before hiding the tail.

Can I use safety eyes instead of felt?

The source specifies black felt cut into tear shapes and glued on. Using safety eyes would change the construction and potentially the look of the character.

For more amigurumi inspiration, you might also enjoy our Demogorgon pattern or our Unicorn doll tutorial.